Let it be that milestone moment of Donatella Versace sitting front row for Vaccarello’s first collection, since officially being appointed Versus Versace creative director, to begin Paris Fashion Week F/W 2015. Unlike New York fashion week’s oversize jumpers shrugging loosely over models’ shoulders, Paris seemed to reside in the tailored world of blacks. Vaccarello’s recent travels to the American West brought a, somewhat, rock ‘n’ roll vibe, where subtle, and not-so-subtle, metal stars encroach on the dresses of the collection. However, Vaccarello’s signature cutouts became a focal point – slim industrialized half-belts resting on the waist and the harsh angular shoulders formed the dominatrix attitude that now proceeds to challenge the sensuality of Italian craftsmanship.
Disproportionate wafts of felt, poplin, ribbed knits and corduroy stitched together, as a naïve youth would have done in Kindergarten art class, came hand in hand with the bare breasted models of Parisian fashion label Jacquemus’ collection. Unlike the usual orange pink hues and geometric aptitude of designer Simon Porte, this Fall collection dwells in the far-from-systematic realms of fashion land, where his style of dilapidated chaos is swooned over. Nevertheless, this seemingly childish parcel of amusement had an added visionary texture. Berlin-based photographer Sebastian Bieniek’s “Doublefaced” series was central inspiration in Lyne Desnoyers, MAC makeup artist’s, graphic kohl facial art that endearingly complimented the abstract jigsaw puzzle atmosphere.
DIOR’S ODE TO AUSTIN POWERS
Camouflaging in the psychedelic realm that could easily be mistaken for the sixties, Raf Simons’, of Dior, F/W 2015 collection traversed into an intoxicating vibrancy that could only be described as an ode to Austin Power’s infamous mojo. One of which radiated sexuality, nevertheless, subdued in the refined tailoring of Dior craftsmanship. A skintight suit of fluorescent orange, moss green and white marbling, sultry in stature, is definitely not for the faint-hearted. While the acrylic-like mesh high neck, sleeveless tops in washed greens and pinks were paired with ink blotted mid calf skirts, broke up the bright colour blocking and brought back elements of the clean-cut atmosphere from Spring 2015 Ready-to-wear.
On another note, however, Simon’s collaborative effort with Danish Textile Company Kvadrat came with a sophisticated tweak, as androgynous suits and F/W coats were constructed with tweed combinations of soft pastels and condiment colours of mustard and tomato.
Although, in this ordered disorder of fanciful design, what seemed to be the focus, and presumably the next style phenomenon in the 2015 fashion game, was the vinyl knee-high and ankle boots. Paired with the seemingly Veruschka-like inspired doll-eyed, “color-blocked arches of opaque eye shadow”, the collection of boots glossed there way up to the pinnacle of fashion heaven.
BALMAIN FALL 2015 PARIS FASHION WEEK
Pleats, stripes and diamond tassels are back, according to Oliver Rousteing of world-renowned fashion label Balmain. With a fifty-piece collection, Rousteing took an alternate route after last years Fall/Winter khaki and leather basket weave constructions.
The recent Fall/Winter 2015 collection, however, “celebrate[s] that Parisian tradition as well as the evolution of [the] city into a truly global melting pot.” This collection is of passionate colour, not only visually but also conceptually. At first glance, under the dim yellow hues of the runway lights, the seventies inspired flares and breaths of diamond-stringed fabric in coral, mustard and fuchsia seemed to be one of the cool and groovy nature. However, Rousteing released a statement to journalists where he spoke about recent events in Paris, and so, “that open-minded spirit” and “defending essential liberties” is a driving force of the seventies inspired diversity and strength.
Each design came out empowering and unwavering; nevertheless, still bringing a soft pleated touch in the high-waist pants and the envious gleam of the audiences’ eyes seemed to reflect off the kaleidoscopic copper-beaded fringing. One cannot fault the precision to detail and pure talent of such an influential designer in our generation, one that will continue, year after year, to incite, intrigue and shock the fashion world.